Saturday, November 30, 2019

Olympus 300mm F/4.0 autofocus performance from wildlife user perspective

I am using Olympus 300mm F/4.0 on E-M1 MK II for more than one year. During this year I had the opportunity to test the autofocus system in different conditions, I tried different settings and found how to maximize the keeper rate. In this article I want to post the best settings I found from my user experience and a lot of pictures with birds in flight.




When I had the first BIF session with E-M1 MK II and 300mm, I got a very low keeper rate - arround 25%. A lot of shots were out of focus.
Then I took shots with static subjects and even in this situation I had some out of focus photos. This was very strange and unacceptable, I thought somethings is really wrong with Olympus C-AF system.




But I did not gave up and I started to check all the settings related to the AF System. Hapilly I found were was the problem. There is a setting - "AF Scanner" which defines how many times the camera will retry to get the subject in focus. By testing the different settings, I found that Mode 3 is the only setting which gives good results. Mode 1 and Mode 2 will limitate the ability of the camera to keep the subject in focus and randomly the focus will fail.
From the moment I set-up Mode 3 on my camera, my keeper rate increased to 60...90% depending of the subject, light...etc.





Here is the list of settings which gave me the best results. Please consider it in this order (most important settings are on the top):

1. AF Scanner to be set-up on Mode 3. The other two modes (Mode 1 and Mode 2) will limitate the ability of the camera to keep the subject in focus not only when the subject is moving, but also when the subject is static.


2. AF Area pointer to be set-up on ON2. This is called also Cluster AF tracking.  It displays the AF target frame in green while the shutter button is pressed halfway. So with the shutter button half pressed you can keep the subject in the frame and see where camera focuses. So you can decide what is to best moment to fire.

3. Try to use less active focus points if is possible. This will increase the focusing speed while it will become more dificult to keep the subject in focus. By example a group of 25 focus points will provide a decent frame coverage and will be good enough for slow birds in flight like herons or buzzards.

4. Focus limiter will also increase the focus speed if the focus range is limited to a lower range. If I set-up my 300mm to focus from 4m to infinite, the focus speed is faster. Focus limiter in the camera will not only help camera to avoid being distracted by the background, but it will also help to see better the subject in the EVF especially when the subject is out of focus. I ussually set-up a range of 4m..75m or 4m..100m.

5. IS disabled. With IS disabled I get slight better results when I shoot birds in flight. I disable it in such situations or use it on AUTO mode.

6. C-AF Sensitivity to be set-up on -2. I got a bit better results with -2 compared to +2.

7. Use C-AF without tracking. The tracking option from E-M1 MK II works OK with slow birds in flight (herons, eagles) but it is not usable for fast birds like swallows or bee-eaters.

8. Firmware 3.0 brought a new option into E-M1 MK II menus - C-AF Center Priority. It sounds good but I did not got positive results at the first tests so I disable it. If I have the chance in the future, I will test it again.
In general, after firmware 3.0 I did not saw any significant improvment for the keeper rate. I get similar results as before.

9. C-AF - Release Priority C - I disabled this option (I set it to OFF). When is enabled, camera could shot even if the AF system did not confirmed the focus. I do not want to get OOF pictures. I prefere a lower frame rate with all pictures in focus.

10. Set EVF refresh rate to high. This will not improve the focus, but will help you to keep the subject in the frame. 

11. Fire short burts and release in between. Releasing the button will increase the ability of the camera to refocus on the subject.


One of the most dificult situations is when there is a distractive background.
Olympus C-AF system does relatively well in such situations, but of course experience&skills makes a big difference here.

In such situation I used 2 strategies:
1. I use a small group of active focus points (ex : 9) and keep this area on the subject. This works fine for slow birds but is very dificult to handle the fast birds like bee-eaters or swallows.
2. I use all focus points activated, then try to keep the bird in the frame and to lock the focus on the target by pressing the shutter button halfway. The keeper rate is lower than in the first case, but it is easier to keep the fast birds in the frame.

At the end, after some practice, I found Olympus system good and I got nice results.







My favourite birds in flight are swifts and swallows because those birds are very fast , dificult to keep in the frame, dificult to keep it in focus. So here it is important to activate all focus points and to have the highest refresh rate for the EVF. To get some focus speed here, I switch the focus limiter from 4m to infinite.
Olympus AF system managed very well.









For fast birds I use:
-exposure time = 1/4000s;
-all focus points activated;
-camera in Manual Mode and ISO=AUTO;
-IS=Off;
-C-AF (no tracking), low fps mode 6...10 fps;
-EVF refresh rate = high.
-F/4.0...F/5.6.

I use the electronic shutter in order to save mechanical shutter's life. Maybe mechanical shutter is slight better, but I could not find any issue with the electronic shutter. So I am using it.









In the past I used for many years Olympus E-5 + 50-200mm SWD + TC.
It was a good combo, I got very nice results with it, was a pleasure to use it.
But 200mm was not long enough in some situations. When I mounted the TC in front, the focus speed was affected, the image quality was affected too.

Now E-M1 MK II + 300mm F/4.0 it's a big step ahead, a perfect combo compared to what I used before:-better C-AF, faster AF, more fps;
-300mm F/4.0 has splendid IQ, I can shoot birds which are 100..200 meters away, then I crop and the picture looks still nice.
-crazy IS;

In my opinion Olympus has a now a very good combo for wildlife, without any things to complain.
I am very happy with it and looking forward in the future to make nice pictures.








22 comments:

  1. What a great post and great photos. How about a downloadable pdf?

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    1. Thank you for your comment !
      This page can be printed to a virtual printer like "Microsoft XPS..." or "Bullzip printer". Then you have the page in pdf or xps format.

      Delete
    2. Belated thanks for your reply. I will print as you suggest. And a Happy New Year!

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  2. Thank you for a very informative post.

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  3. I also want to thank you for this very informative post! I am an (very) amateur bird photographer shooting mostly red kites from time to time with the E-M1II + 300mm f4 and I was also sometimes disappointed with the keeper rate. I had the AF Scanner set-up on Mode 2 and C-AF Sensitivity on +2, so I am very curious to test the new settings in the springtime.. cheers!

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    1. Thank you for your comment, Roman !
      Yes, set AF Scanner on Mode3. This will make a big difference.
      But also "AF Area Pointer" on ON2, if you do not have it already like this.

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  4. Thank you, interesting tip on the scanner, will try Mode 3, I also find setting the limiter was the best increase in keeper rate for BIF, only stuff in the set "range" is focused on - everything else is ignored.

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  5. Thank you for the tips. I discovered I was doing a lot of things almost the way you described, and because of that I was getting a relatively low keeper rate. With your tips I am anxious to get out and see how I can improve. All I need now is cooperative weather and birds!

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    1. You're welcome !
      Yes, keeper rate can be increased to a very good level if you do the right settings.

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  6. Great article! I just adjusted some of your BIF settings into my EM-1 ii's C2 mode.
    One question, is the CAF sensitivity set to -2 to mitigate the camera from locking focus onto the background while using a larger CAF target area?
    Thanks!

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    1. Thank you for your comment !

      In practice I found out that -2 gives slight better results than +2 when there is a distractive background.

      The risc of locking the focus on the background you have it anyway.
      Either use a smaller AF area (lower number of focus points) - this works very well, but it is more dificult to keep the subject in focus. Your skill will make a big difference here.
      Either you activate all focus points - will be easier to keep the subject in the frame, but the keeper rate will be smaller.

      After the last firmware update there was a new option - C-AF Center Priority which might help, but I did not had this feeling when I tested it first time. I will test it in the future and write an update to this article.

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  7. Good tips - I'll be trying them!

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    1. Hi Toni, this was really a joy to read. Your paper is useful and pictures are impressive, thank you! Unfortunately I don't own an em1mk2, but just an old trusty em10mk1. Neither a 300f4, but an old fashioned consumer 70-300 slow aperture lens. However, with some practice and work, I was able to obtain decent keepers, sure not like yours, but definitely keepers. Carefully reading your proposed settings, I found a lot of similarities with other bloggers. Somehow I've managed to adapt to my combo above settings and finally I found them truly effective. However, main reason for my involvement here and concern about em1mk2 AF system was identified in the very first paragraph of your argument: use AF Scanner Mode 3. In agreement with other experimented guys, final choice remains Mode 3 because apparently it helps achieving a better keeper ratio. In this case I just wondering how Olympus engineers managed this choice? Are they really stupid, what are they thinking? Why have they created Mode 1 and 2? Is this a pure engineering stupidity or an innocent bluff or maybe a logistic mismatch? Strange, isn't it? Mode 3 only...

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    2. Mihai,

      Thank you for your comment !
      I guess Olympus engineers tried to give us more flexibility over the camera settings and to the AF algorythm. Maybe the other 2 scanner-modes makes sense in some specific situations (studio, S-AF...I am not sure).
      For me "Mode 3" is clearly the best choice, I will always use it.

      Best regards,
      Toni



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  8. Hi Toni: Enjoyed reading this blog and impressed with your photos of swifts (very difficult to nail focus because of their erratic flight). I have the same exact set up as you with the OMD em1, mkII and 300 mm lens and also enjoy shooting BIF.

    Interestingly, I have been using the settings for BIF provided by Olympus visionary bird photographer, Scott Bourne, as found on the Olympus “Learn and Support” page. They are quite different from your settings:

    AF mode - C-AF + tracking. (I prefer C-AF, however).
    AF Scanner Mode 2
    C-AF lock +2
    Res Priority C - On
    Image Stabilizer - S-IS 1.

    I have been reasonably pleased with my BIF results with these settings, but perhaps could be better? I have put your recommended settings into a custom mode on my camera and hope to give it a try this spring and summer and see how it compares.

    Thanks for doing such thorough testing of this camera; we can all benefit from it.
    Greetings from Washington state,
    Larry M

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    1. Thank you, Larry !

      I remember I also read Scott's article about AF settings and I was a bit suprised about some settings he recomended.

      I am still very confident that the settings I recomended here will probably give the best results.

      For me tracking worked only for slow birds, but for fast birds the tracking was unreliable. So I prefered to use simple C-AF which works well.
      Then switching to AF Scanner Mode 3 gave me a huge improvment over the other modes. Now I would not use anything else than Mode 3.

      The individual skils, the experience, can also make a big difference.

      Now the spring is coming. I can't wait for a new session of BIFs. :) I probably need to wait another 3-4 weeks.

      Thank you for your visit, all the best,
      Toni

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  9. Good read and use most of your settings already but I can't seem to find the EVF refresh setting in the manual?

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    1. Thank you !
      The EVF refresh you probably can change in D2 menu, Frame rate : normal or high. I can't check it on my camera now, I only find the info in the internet.

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    2. ok ... found it under frame rate ... it was on high too. thanks again

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  10. A very refreshing review of the 300mmf/4. Informative and helpful
    Thanks for sharing.
    William

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